Noirmoutier este o insulă din Golful Biscay (Golfe de Gascogne), conectată cu Franța continentală printr-un pod și, de asemenea, prin Passage du Gois, accesibil doar la reflux, acesta din urma fiind o duna uriasa de nisip asfaltată, cu o lungime de 4,5 kilometri.

În nordul insulei se afla orașelul Noirmoutier, unde clădirile și alte locuri pline de istorie sunt presarate la tot pasul, pe străzile mici, mai ales în centru. Magazinele-boutique, cafenelele micute de pe trotuare și restaurantele puncteaza o atmosferă plină de viață, cu parfum de pini maritimi ce vine din depărtare, ademenind in umbra adanca din Bois de la Chaise.

Pe măsură ce se merge de-a lungul coastei, spre nord, se ajunge in fermecătorul sat Le Vieil, unde domnesc calmul si linistea, intrerupte doar de fosnet de frunze. Le Vieil este o destinatie exclusiv de vacanta, cu multe casute joase, varuite cu alb, ce pune in evidenta obloanele de lemn de la ferestre, vopsite predominant in albastru marin, bleu-gri si verde stins. Fiecare casuta are un rond de flori in fata, daca nu chiar o gradina cocheta, din care nu lipsesc tufele imense de lavanda si hortensiile XXL. Spun XXL, da, caci e prima data cand intalnesc tufe de hortensii inalte de 2 m, cu circumferinte de 2-4 m si inflorescente magnifice roz sau grena, mari cat o minge de fotbal.  Sunt absolut spendide, cred ca pot fi incluse ca simbol in sigla satului, ca un landmark.

La ocean timpul este marcat de flux si reflux, iar activitatile umane se desfasoara in conformitate, dintre care una consacrata pare a fi cu siguranta culesul de stridii, scoici si alge la reflux, unde les connaisseurs ies in evidenta imediat prin dotari: galetuse, incaltari de neopren si mai ales, esential, cutitase cu lama scurta si rezistenta, pentru desprins cochiliile stridiilor de pe stranci. S-ar zice ca ies la cules de stridii, in stilul “din ocean, direct in farfurie” 😉

Piata din portul Noirmoutier-en- Ȋle este foarte bogata, aici se gasesc, proaspete si la preturi mici, scoici, stridii, calamari, creveti, langustine, peste si multe altele din capitolul marin, completate de oferta produselor traditionale franceze: terrine de porc si rata, mousse canard, carnati, si multe alte bunatati.  Fructele si legumele aduc culoare si intregesc paleta de savori, rosiile cumparate de aici fiind dintre cele mai bune, dulci si aromate pe care le-am mancat vreodata. Vinerea si duminica dimineata este si un targ, cu haine, bijuterii, covoare si multe cosuri impetite din papura, superbissime si irezisitibile.

Tot in Noirmoutier-en- Ȋle, de mers la restaurantul-crêperie Le Palais – Maison Martin, pentru clatitele absolut delicioase, in varianta gustare consistenta de “galletes” si varianta clasica, de desert, preparate dupa retete transmise din generatie in generatie de familia Martin, din 1884. Sunt chiar bune si neobisnuit de mari si subtiri.

English version:

Noirmoutier is an island in the Bay of Biscay (Gulf of Gascogne), connected with mainland France by a bridge and also by the Passage du Gois, accessible only at the ebb tide, the latter being a huge dune of asphalted sand, with a length 4.5 kilometers.
In the north of the island is the town of Noirmoutier, where buildings and other places full of history are sprinkled throughout, on the small streets, especially in the center. The boutique shops, the small sidewalk cafes and the restaurants punctuate a lively atmosphere, with the scent of maritime pines coming from away, leaning into the deep shadow of the Bois de la Chaise.
As you go along the coast, towards the north, you will reach the charming village of Le Vieil, where calm and tranquility reign, interrupted only by the foliage. Le Vieil is an exclusive holiday destination, with many low houses, varnished with white, which highlights the wooden shutters from the windows, predominantly painted in navy blue, blue-gray and faded green. Each cottage has a round of flowers in front, if not even a cozy garden, full of flowers, among are always huge lavender bushes and XXL hydrangeas. I say XXL, yes, because this is the first time when I meet 2 m high hydrangea bushes, with 2-4 m circumference and magnificent pink or burgundy inflorescences, as big as a soccer ball. They are absolutely gorgeous; I think they can be included as a symbol in the village logo, as a landmark.

In the ocean the time is marked by flux and reflux, and the human activities are carried out in accordance, of which one consecrated seems to be the collection of oysters, shells and algae at reflux, where les connaisseurs immediately stand out through endowments: buckets, Neoprene shoes and especially, essentially, knife with short blade and resistance, to detach the shells of oysters from the stumps. It would be said that they go out to collect oysters, in the style “from the ocean, directly on the plate” 😉

The market in the port of Noirmoutier-en-Ȋle is very rich, here you can find fresh food and low prices, shells, oysters, squid, shrimps, prawns, fish and many more in the marine chapter, supplemented by the offer of traditional French products: terrines pork, mousse canard, sausages, and many other goodies. The fruits and vegetables bring color and complete the palette of flavors, the tomatoes bought here are some of the best, sweet and aromatic I have ever eaten. Friday and Sunday morning is also a fair, with clothes, jewelry, carpets and many baskets made of rush, all superb and irresistible.

Also in Noirmoutier-en-Ȋle, a must go is Le Palais restaurant – Maison Martin, for the absolutely delicious pancakes, in the snack consistency of “galletes” and the classic version, dessert, prepared from recipes passed down from generation to generation by the Martin family, since 1884. The pancakes are really good and unusually large and thin.

 

Photo credits: personal archive Ruxandra Chiurtu