Am copilarit prin vii. Jucam de-a v-ati ascunselea cu ceilalti copii prin viile bunicilor, intr-un sat din sudul Olteniei si am descoperit de timpuriu gustul acru al strugurilor necopti sau aroma si dulceata parfumata a boabelor negre din soiul numit “ananas”. Iar la cules, noi, cei mici, eram primii care ne urcam desculti si tropaiam intr-o veselie asurzitoare in butoiul cu muntele de ciorchini, marcand astfel inceputul facerii vinului.
Ei bine, experienta mersului prin viile elvetiene a fost diferita, si iata in cele ce urmeaza, de ce 🙂

De-a lungul lacului Leman (Geneva) se afla o portiune de aproximativ 30 de kilometri cu vii terasate ce fac legatura intre Lausanne si Vevey-Montreux, care coboara ordonat pana la apa si se oglindesc fata in fata cu Alpii francezi, intr-un peisaj de o frumusete aparte.
Este vorba despre Lavaux, regiune ce face parte din patrimoniul UNESCO World Heritage, si unde se cultiva vita de vie din secolul al XI-lea, cu accent pe anumite soiuri selectionate si dezvoltate de-a lungul timpului cu grija si minutiozitatea specifica elvetienilor. Tulpinile sadite atunci, sub indrumarea calugarilor manastirilor din ordinul Benedictin si Cistercian, ce controlau atunci regiunea, au fost inceputul pentru ceea ce acum este denumit “cultural landscape”, o marturie remarcabila a unei civilizatii autentice si dinamice.

Lavaux Vineyard Terraces se întind din malul nordic al Lacului Geneva, de la Chateau de Chillon, pana la periferia estică a Lausanne în regiunea Vaud, si acoperă intr-un peisaj bucolic pantele joase ale muntelui, între sate și lac. Vizitatorii sunt bineveniti sa le exploreze la pas sau cu mini-trenulete, sa faca degustari de vin si de mancare specifica zonei, in crame sau la micile restaurante familiale gazduite de case vechi, de patrimoniu, ce pastreaza intre zidurile groase de caramida, farmecul secolelor trecute. Am inceput plimbarea prin Lavaux intr-o dupa-amiaza de septembrie, cand apusul soarelui a invaluit intregul peisaj cu acea lumina magica si calda, aproape ireala, pe care pana atunci o vazusem doar in filme sau fotografii celebre. Am mers cu trenul 20 de minute, din Lausanne pana in Grandvaux, unde a pornit calatoria la pas prin viile elvetiene, cu degustare de struguri, fotografiat aproape continuu – nici pisica blazata ce se odihnea pe un stalp de piatra, cu spatele la lac, n-a scapat – exclamatii de uimire la vederea minunatiei de loc in care paseam si, chiar daca n-am mai gasit loc la Auberge du Vigneron si pe final de drum, ne-a prins ploaia pana am coborat in Epesses, n-as putea spune ca in cele 4 ore m-am plictisit sau ca a fost doar o simpla preumblare prin vii.

English version text:

I grew up in the vineyards. Playing hide-and-seek with the children through grandparents’ vineyards in a village in southern Oltenia, so I discovered early the sour taste of unripe grapes or the grain perfumed aroma and sweetness of black variety called “pineapple”. After harvest, us, the kids, we were the first to climb barefoot and we merrily trotted into deafening in the mountain clusters barrel, marking the beginning of the creation of wine.

Well, walking through the vineyards Swiss, the experience was different, and here in what follows, why 🙂

Along Lake Leman (Geneva) is a stretch of about 30 kilometers with living terraces that connect between Lausanne and Vevey-Montreux, which descends Swiss ordered to water and are reflected in the face the French Alps, in a landscape of total natural beauty.

It’s about Lavaux region, which is part of UNESCO World Heritage, and where vines are grown in the eleventh century, focusing on certain varieties selected and developed over time with care and a thoroughness specific Swiss. Strains planted then, under the guidance of monks from Benedictine and Cistercian monasteries, which then controlled the region, were the beginning to what is now called “cultural landscape”, a remarkable testimony of an authentic and dynamic civilization.

Lavaux Vineyard Terraces stretch starting from the northern shore of Lake Geneva, from the Chateau de Chillon, to the eastern outskirts of Lausanne in the Vaud region, and covers a bucolic landscape the lower slopes of the mountain, between the villages and the lake. Visitors are welcome to explore them on foot or mini-trains, to make wine tastings and specialty food area, in cellars or small family restaurants hosted by old houses, heritage mostly, which keeps between the thick walls of brick, the charm of past centuries.

I started walking through Lavaux in a September afternoon, when dusk enveloped the entire landscape with magic, warm light,  almost unreal, which I’ve never saw until then for real, but only in movies or famous photographs. We went by train 20 minutes from Lausanne until Grandvaux, where we started the journey on foot through the Swiss vineyards, tasting grapes, photographing almost continuously – not even a lazy resting big cat on a stone pillar with his back to the lake, not escaped –  lots of exclamations of wonder at the sight of heavenly beauty of the place and even if we have not found place at Auberge du Vigneron and the end of the road, caught us a summer rain until arriving down in Epesses, I could not tell as in the 4 hours I was bored or it was just wanderings through the vineyards.

 

Photo credits: personal archive Ruxandra Chiurtu