Inceputa ca o escapada la munte, in cautare de verde, umbra si racoare, excursia dintr-o zi de august incins a devenit o incursiune splendida si revelatoare in istoria si civilizatia poporului român. La doua ore distanta de Bucuresti si 125 de kilometri, dupa ce treci de vechea cetate de scaun a Targovistei, la iesirea din satul Cetateni, daca privesti in dreapta, peste apa Dambovitei, in varful unui munte stancos se afla Manastirea Cetatuie Negru Voda.
Supranumita “Meteora României”, cetatea se afla in varful muntelui, la altitudinea de 881 de metri.
Lasati masina in parcarea de langa sosea, aflata la baza traseului, treceti podul si pregatiti-va de urcus destul de abrupt, pe o poteca ingusta, presarata cu varfuri ascutite de stanci, care urca pana sus, la manastire. Drumul prin padure este minunat, la umbra copacilor, miroase a pamant ud, muschi si flori de munte, dar trebuie mare atentie la fiecare pas, pentru a evita entorse, alunecari sau chiar cazaturi din cauza potecii denivelate. Este un traseu montan destul de usor, preferabil insa de parcurs incet, sa savurezi pe indelete frumusetea naturii dar si ca sa-ti protejezi incheieturile. Am ajuns sus in 35 de minute, urmand poteca presarata cu 12 cruci si troite pictate, dar si cu cateva banci din lemn pe care calatorul poate sa-si mai traga sufletul, prelungind astfel baia Zen de padure si de aer rece de munte.
Odata ajunsi sus, veti descoperi o panorama completa asupra vailor inconjuratoare, splendida si relaxanta. Cetatuia este construita intr-o pestera naturala, unde in trecut, a existat un important centru spiritual geto-dacic, despre care sapaturile arheologice sustin ca dateaza din secolul al V-lea inainte de Hristos sau altfel spus, inca de la inceputurile celei de-a doua epoci a fierului. Insemne ale vechiului lacas de cult dacic se regasesec destul de vizibil si surprinzator, la fata locului.
Cetatuia era fortificata cu ziduri de piatra groase de 2,5 m, si cercetarile intreprinse de arheologul Dinu V. Rosetti pe terasele si malurile raului au determinat faptul ca si acestea au fost locuite in acele vremuri indepartate. O descoperire deosebit de importanta a fost gasirea printre vestigiile fostei cetati a numeroase monede, piese facute de geto-daci dupa modelul celor macedonene din veacurile III—II i.e.n., monede ale cetatilor pontice, care indicau legaturile locuitorilor cu asezarile de pe malul Marii Negre, precum si monede republicane romane din secolul I i.e.n.
In timpuri medievale, in jurul anilor 1.200, pe acest loc cu profunde vibratii religioase, s-a construit o cetate feudala, care a adapostit numerosi domnitori in timpu luptelor cu tatarii si alte neamuri cotropitoare de-a lungul zbuciumatei istorii românesti.
In spatele bisericii rupestre, chiar in aceeasi stanca in care este sapata aceasta,este o scobitura in piatra numita “Chilia Mosului”. De aici, se vede valea Dambovitei care este impresionanta si te face sa te asezi pe stanca incalzita de soare ca sa privesti in zare, peste paduri si creste de munti. Locul are o incarcatura energetica aparte, se simt peste tot good vibes si, la plecare, veti constata o senzatie de refresh si de relaxare profunda, de liniste si pace.
Chilia Mosului tine isonul nenumaratelor traditii locale care zvonesc ca insusi Zamolxis vizita cu regularitate aceste meleaguri si cetatea locuita de monahi daci. In locul de meditatie si ruga al Marelui Preot se afla sculpturi in stanca, reprezentand cruci arhaice, serafimi, porumbelul si o mana ce binecuvanteaza, toate acestea datand din vremea tracilor, inaintea erei noastre.
Pe stanca din spatele Cetatii Negru Voda se poate vedea cum este incrustata silueta Cavalerului Trac Mithra, zeul tanar al tracilor balcanici si danubieni, datata acum 2.500-3.000 de ani, ca simbol perpetuu al nemuririi si a victoriei binelui asupra raului. Putin mai sus de aici sunt doua randuri de pasi in piatra, despre care una dintre legende povesteste ca ar apartine lui Negru Voda si sotiei sale Marghita, de unde si numele de “Cetatea Negru Voda”; se pare ca atunci cand acestia erau inconjurati de turci ar fi cerut sa ramana ceva in urma lor, iar Dumnezeu le-ar fi implinit aceasta dorinta.
Privelistea acolo sus este minunata si merita savurata pe indelete, indeamna deopotriva la relaxare, meditatie si introspectie, iar drumul de inapoiere prin padure racoreste trupul si spiritul, incarcandu-l cu energie pozitiva.
English translated text:
Started as a getaway to the mountains, in search of greenery, shade and coolness, the trip on a hot August day has become a splendid and revealing foray into the history and civilization of the Romanian people. Two hours away from Bucharest and 125 kilometers, after passing the old seat fortress of Targoviste, at the exit from the village of Cetateni, if you look to the right, over the water of Dambovita river, on top of a rocky mountain, is the Monastery Fortress Negru Voda. Nicknamed “Meteora of Romania“, the fortress is located on top of a mountain, at an altitude of 881 meters.
Leave your car in the parking lot next to the road, located at the base of the route, cross the bridge and get ready to climb quite steeply, on a narrow path, sprinkled with sharp cliffs, which climbs up to the monastery. The road through the forest is wonderful, in the shade of the trees, it smells of wet earth, moss and mountain flowers, but great care must be taken at every step, to avoid sprains, slips or even falls due to the uneven path. It is a fairly easy mountain route, but preferably slow, to leisurely enjoy the beauty of nature but also to protect your joints. We reached the top in 35 minutes, following the path sprinkled with 12 painted crosses, but also with some wooden benches on which the traveler can breathe, thus extending the Zen bath of forest and cold mountain air.
Once you reach the top, you will discover a complete panorama of the surrounding valleys, splendid and relaxing. The fortress is built in a natural cave, where in the past, there was an important Geto-Dacian spiritual center, which archaeological excavations claim to date back to the fifth century BC or in other words, since the beginning of the second age of iron. Signs of the old Dacian place of worship can be found quite visible and surprising on the spot.
The fortress was fortified with 2.5 m thick stone walls, and research by archaeologist Dinu V. Rosetti on the terraces and banks of the river determined that they were also inhabited in those distant times. A particularly important discovery was the finding among the vestiges of the former fortress of numerous coins, pieces made by the Geto-Dacians after the model of the Macedonians of the III-II centuries BC, coins of the Pontic fortresses, which indicated the links of the inhabitants with the settlements on the Black Sea, as well as Romanian republican coins from the 1st century BC.
In medieval times, around the year 1,200, on this place with deep religious vibrations, a feudal fortress was built, which housed many rulers during the battles with the Tartars and other invading nations during the troubled Romanian history. Behind the cave church, right in the same rock where it is dug, is a hollow in the stone called “Old Man’s Cell”. From here, you can see the Dambovita valley, which is impressive and makes you sit on the rock warmed by the sun to look into the horizon, over the forests and mountain ridges. The place has a special energy load, good vibes are felt everywhere and, upon departure, you will notice a feeling of refreshment and deep relaxation, peace and quiet. Santa’s cell keeps pace with the countless local traditions that rumor that Zamolxis himself regularly visits these lands and the fortress, which since then were sprinkled with Dacian monks. In the place of meditation and prayer of the High Priest there are sculptures in the rock, representing archaic crosses, seraphim, the dove and a blessing hand, all dating from the Thracian era, before our era.
On the rock behind the Negru Voda Fortress you can see the silhouette of the Thracian Knight Mithra, the young god of the Balkan and Danubian Thracians, dated 2,500-3,000 years ago, as a perpetual symbol of immortality and the victory of good over evil. A little above here you can see two rows of stone steps, about which one of the legends tells that it belonged to Negru Voda, and to his wife Marghita, hence the name “Cetatea Negru Voda”; it seems that when they were surrounded by the Turks they would have asked for something to be left behind, and God would have fulfilled this desire. The view up there is wonderful and worth enjoying leisurely, it urges relaxation, meditation and introspection, and the way back through the forest cools the body and spirit, charging it with positive energy.
Photo credits: personal archive Ruxandra Chiurtu