Am ajuns la Cartagina intr-o dimineata de inceput de mai, cand soarele isi incepuse ascensiunea hotarat, sub un paravan transparent de nori razleti, promitandu-ne o zi calduroasa pentru periplul nostru printre ruinele cetatii antice. Nu eram prea sigura ca vreau sa le vad, insa ceva inexplicabil, poate energia aparte si extrem de puternica a pamantului african, poate atractia mea, abia ani mai tarziu constientizata, pentru ziduri vechi, mi-au manat pasii de la intrare, pe aleile pietruite si boltite de palmieri imensi, catre platoul orasului vechi.

Aici am ramas inmarmurita de maretia si frumusetea asternuta in fata ochilor: ramasitele coloanelor antice de marmura inflorata si piatra, arcadele si bucatile de ziduri dominau o intindere inconjurata din trei parti de mare, dar Mediterana nu era albastra, ci aurie, acoperita de razele soarelui, era precum o oglinda imensa, atat de stralucitoare, prin care soarele parea coborat pe Pamant sa imbratiseze cetatea, ca si cum voia sa spuna ca este a lui. Fantastic, incredibil, insa real, o imagine care mi-a ramas intiparita in minte instantaneu, pentru totdeauna.

Locul are o vibratie foarte puternica, aproape perceptibila, materiala si linsititoare, iar grandoarea vremurilor antice, cand Cartagina era cel mai bogat si prestigios oras al timpurilor, se vede in fiecare basorelief coloana sau frantura de arcada de marmura sculptata cu deosebita maiestrie in arabescuri florale. Cand am revazut fotografiile, i-am multumit inca o data, in gand, Adelei Parvu, pentru rabdarea cu care poza fiecare detaliu de care eram entuziasmata 🙂 multumesc, Adele!

Cartagina a fost întemeiată de coloniștii fenicieni veniți din Tyr în secolul IX înainte de Hristos. Pentru a se deosebi de vechea colonie Utica, ei au numit noua așezare “orașul nou” – în feniciană Kart-Hadașt. Legenda întemeierii orașului Cartagina spune ca prințesa feniciană Elissa, sora lui Pygmalion din Tyr, a fugit de fratele ei însetat de putere care îi ucisese soțul, și a ajuns cu corăbiile pe coasta nord-africană. Căpetenia berberilor locului i-a făgăduit atât pământ cât va putea să înconjoare cu o piele de vacă, iar Elissa a tăiat pielea în fâșii foarte subțiri și cu ajutorul acestora a putut marca o bucată mare de teritoriu.

În cele trei războaie cu romanii, desfăşurate în perioada 264 – 146 era noastra, cartaginezii vor pierde controlul asupra Mediteranei şi în cele din urmă oraşul lor va fi complet distrus in flacari.

Acum, vara, in amfiteatrul aflat intre ruine au loc numeroase concerte, ce pun in valoare rezonanta aparte a locului.

Am iesit dintre ramasitele vechii Cartagine, la plimbare pe strazile actualei Cartagine, cu Adela si Andu, inca fascinati de vibratiile maretiei pure, antice, coplesitoare si am descoperit ceea ce ni s-au parut atunci probabil cele mai frumoase si elegante case vazute vreodata, cu o arhitectura simpla, alba, rectangulara, marcata doar prin culorile intense ale tocariei si incadramentelor de la ferestre.

La mai putin de 10 km distanta de Cartagina se afla Sidi Bou Said, considerat unul dintre cele mai pitoresti orasele din lume, unde cladirile sunt toate in alb si albastru, care, in arta islamica sugereaza lumina, marea si cerul, asa incat este o destinatie incantatoare de vacanta.

Asezat pe malul marii Mediterane, pare un mozaic urias in golful Tunis, in care se reflecta culmile gemene ale Muntelui Bou Korninr. Legenda spune ca acestea ar fi capetele pietrificate a doi pelerini care se intorceau de la Mecca si au fost transformati in stane de piatra pentru ca s-au oprit in varful muntelui sa admire frumosul Sidi Bou Said.

Stradutele sunt inguste si in panta, presarate cu cafenele si paravalioare  ale artizanilor locali, numite ‘souk’ ce vand haine si accesorii din piele fina, covorase de lana, bijuterii si ceramica viu colorata, desprinsa direct din basmele orientale, toate superbe si irezistibile, n-ai cum sa treci indiferent mai departe.

Este intr-adevar foarte seducator micul Sidi Bou Said si ne-am promis – eu, Adela Parvu si Andu Miron  – sa revenim si sa cumparam o casa acolo, in care sa locuim cu totii. Poate chiar asa vom face 🙂

English version text: 

We arrived in Carthage on a morning of early May, when the sun began its steady climb, under a clear screen of cloudy clouds, promising us a warm day for our journey through the ruins of the ancient fortress. I was not too sure I wanted to see them, but something inexplicable, perhaps the extraordinary and powerful energy of the African earth, perhaps my attraction for the old walls, only years later aware of it, handled my steps at the entrance, cobbled and dwarfed by huge palm trees to the old city plateau.

Here I was fascinated by the majesty and the beauty shown in front of my eyes: the remnants of the ancient columns of marbled marble and stone, the arches and the pieces of walls dominated a stretch surrounded by three parts of the sea, but the Mediterranean was not blue but golden covered by the sun’s rays, was like a huge, bright mirror, through which the sun seemed to descend to Earth to embrace the city, as if to say it was his. Fantastic, incredible, but really, an image that has remained in my mind instantly, forever.

The place has a very strong vibration, almost perceptible, material and lustrous, and the grandeur of the ancient times, when Carthage was the richest and most prestigious city of the time, is seen in each basorelief column or marble arcade cut with majestic craftsmanship in floral arabesques. When I reviewed the photos, I once again thanked Adela Parvu, for the patience she photographed every detail I was excited about, thank you, Adele!

Carthage was founded by the Phoenician settlers from Tyr in the 9th century BC. To distinguish from the old Utica colony, they named the new settlement “the new city” – in the ancient language Kart-Hadasht. The legend of the founding of Carthage says that the Phoenician princess Elissa, Pygmalion’s sister in Tyr, ran away from her power-thirsty brother who had murdered her husband, and arrived by boat on the North African coast. The leader of the Berbers of the place promised her earth as she could surround her with a cowhide, Elissa cut the skin into very thin strips, and this way she could mark a large piece of territory.

In the three wars with the Romans, carried out between 264 and 146, our times, Carthaginians lose control of the Mediterranean, and eventually their city would be completely destroyed in flame.

Now, in summer, there are many concerts in the amphitheater between the ruins, grace of the special resonance of the place.

I left the remains of the old Carthage, strolling on the streets of the current Carthage, with Adela and Andu, still fascinated by the vibrancy of the pure, ancient, overwhelming greatness, and we discovered what we then thought were the most beautiful and elegant houses ever seen, with a simple, white, rectangular architecture, marked only by the intense colors of sharpening and window frames.

Less than 10 km from Carthage is Sidi Bou Said, considered to be one of the most picturesque cities in the world, where the buildings are all in white and blue, which in Islamic art suggest light, sea and sky, so it is a charming holiday destination.

Set on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, it looks like a huge mosaic in the Tunis Bay, reflecting the twin peaks of Mount Bou Korninr. The legend says these were the petrified heads of two pilgrims returning from Mecca and turned into stony stones because they stopped at the top of the mountain to admire the beautiful Sidi Bou Said.

The streets are narrow and sloping, sprinkled with cafes and small shops of local artisans, called ‘souk’, selling fine clothes and accessories, wool rugs, jewelry and brightly colored ceramics, detached directly from the Oriental fairy tales, all gorgeous and irresistible, you cannot go any further without being attracted to them.

It is indeed very seductive little Sidi Bou Said and we have promised – myself, Adela Parvu and Andu Miron – to come back and buy a house there, where we all live. Maybe that’s what we will do 🙂

 

Photo credits: Adela Parvu, Andu Miron, personal archive Ruxandra Chiurtu